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I have some 4943 if you want to give it a try. I haven't tried welding any castings. You must have to do that rinse repeat cycle a few times. My Comet cylinder muff is like an oilite bushing.Bring it over, I'll weld it up for you, have done a few......
Heat it and clean it, rinse and repeat (until no oil appears). Tig with the softer of the two common rods, I don't remember the number.....
Oh, and grind it back a bit to give some space to fill with weld.....
Absolutely of no help,
Bit of an overcomplication, a good slosh of Araldite on the through rod solves any rattles that you might have,A couple of things to note: If you can set it up accurately it is worth bushing the holes through which the stud F122 passes as otherwise you may hear a mysterious untraceable rattle in transit. Go minimum o.d. to tidy up and bush with Loctited bronze. If you use the propstands to lift the front wheel you must slacken off the through stud and the top mounting setscrew through the tab from the crankcase stud. This setscrew should be 1/4" B.S.F. nowadays most are not. You may as well helicoil it back to standard while you are at it.
KISS principle. Extend the thread (1/4" BSF) on the thru pivot rod F122 comet, FT155 twin, then fit a washer and nut on the rod INSIDE of the cowl, both sides and tighten against the INSIDE of the cowl lug; secure those nuts with loctite. Vola the cowl 'legs or lugs' are now fully supported and it's a doddle to tighten up the outside retaining nuts without any risk of fracturing the cowl or having any rattles. See next edition of OVRBit of an overcomplication, a good slosh of Araldite on the through rod solves any rattles that you might have,
has worked for me 50+years. Is it Marcus Bowden that says KIS (keep it simple)