The Spares Company
Club Shop/Regalia
Parent Website
Contact Officials
Machine Registrar
Club Secretary
Membership Secretaries
MPH Editor and Forum Administrator.
Section Newsletters
Technical Databases
Photos
Home
What's new
Latest activity
Forums
New posts
What's new
New posts
Latest activity
Information
Bike Modifications
Machine Data Services
Manufacturers Manuals
Spare Parts Listings
Technical Diagrams
Whitakerpedia (Vincent Wiki)
The Club
MPH Material Archive
Flogger's Corner
Obituaries
VOC Sections
Local Sections
Local Section Newsletters
Miscellaneous
Club Assets
Club History
Club Rules
Machine Data Services
Meeting Documents
Miscellaneous
Essential Reading
Magazine/Newspaper Articles/Letters
Adverts and Sales Brochures
The Mighty Garage Videos
Bikes For Sale (Spares Company)
Log in
Register
What's new
New posts
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Mongrel
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="davidd" data-source="post: 88705" data-attributes="member: 1177"><p>That would be my advice, but I did not do it. I wallowed out the lower transmission bolt holes in the plates for the BAR so that the box could move slightly. I then drilled another hole quite close by and installed a mushroom that was tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]18023[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The mushroom sticks through and is 1/8" proud. Hole "C" is the lower primary cover mounting hole. I cut a 1/8" strap and drilled a hole for the mushroom and one for the transmission bolt.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]18024[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I made two more straps, one with the hole punched a little further away and one with the hole punched a little closer. Between the three, you should be able to adjust for any occurrence. The little holes are for wiring.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]18025[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The mistake I made was having the head of the bolt on this side because you have to pull the bolt out to change the strap. I had a reduced shank for clearance on the other side so I could not swap. I used the so called "mushrooms" because you do not want to use a nut where the chain runs. The chain can damage the thread and nut and you will have to break the bolt to get it off. I thought it better for the bolts in the chain area to have these mushrooms for nuts with no thread poking through. They will always come undone.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]18026[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I think Tim is correct that you can get away without a tensioner. I found that with my original set up the belt was too tight, so I needed a way to loosen it. This is quick and easy. Once the drive side was held steady, the other side had no issues holding steady, too.</p><p></p><p>I love the avatar, but all the lads will be emailing you with their requirements.</p><p></p><p>David</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="davidd, post: 88705, member: 1177"] That would be my advice, but I did not do it. I wallowed out the lower transmission bolt holes in the plates for the BAR so that the box could move slightly. I then drilled another hole quite close by and installed a mushroom that was tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt. [ATTACH=full]18023[/ATTACH] The mushroom sticks through and is 1/8" proud. Hole "C" is the lower primary cover mounting hole. I cut a 1/8" strap and drilled a hole for the mushroom and one for the transmission bolt. [ATTACH=full]18024[/ATTACH] I made two more straps, one with the hole punched a little further away and one with the hole punched a little closer. Between the three, you should be able to adjust for any occurrence. The little holes are for wiring. [ATTACH=full]18025[/ATTACH] The mistake I made was having the head of the bolt on this side because you have to pull the bolt out to change the strap. I had a reduced shank for clearance on the other side so I could not swap. I used the so called "mushrooms" because you do not want to use a nut where the chain runs. The chain can damage the thread and nut and you will have to break the bolt to get it off. I thought it better for the bolts in the chain area to have these mushrooms for nuts with no thread poking through. They will always come undone. [ATTACH=full]18026[/ATTACH] I think Tim is correct that you can get away without a tensioner. I found that with my original set up the belt was too tight, so I needed a way to loosen it. This is quick and easy. Once the drive side was held steady, the other side had no issues holding steady, too. I love the avatar, but all the lads will be emailing you with their requirements. David [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
The Series 'A' Rapide was known as the '********' Nightmare?
Post reply
Home
Forums
Forums: Public Access
Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Comet Mongrel
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Accept
Learn more…
Top