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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutch sprocket play
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<blockquote data-quote="milohiscox" data-source="post: 179334" data-attributes="member: 4317"><p>For anyone interested I turned a thou oversize aluminium mandrel and tapped the carrier on square and machined it down. Ended up with 7 thou end float which feels much better. Resisted turning a recess in C3 for an additional o-ring as suggested elsewhere, will follow years of Vincent tradition and gum up the splines, anyway I have new G3 and C3 and the spline fit is fantastic.</p><p></p><p>My sprocket bush PD24 has the scroll in the direction that encourages oil into it. Clutch Thy Beast discusses this at length and suggests soldering it up to ease the work of seal PD25. I didn't find much discussion on this in the forum, so have left it as is, particularly as I have machined a tight 0.001" running clearance on the spigot. Any thoughts on this appreciated.</p><p></p><p>I also note that the majority of the clutch literature (Whitakerpedia, KTB, Instructions sheets etc) focus on the mechanical set-up of the clutch, springs, play, particularly oil retention. However my own experience of this rebuild was that 80% of the time was spent gently sanding the relined shoes until they all made good, simultaneous contact with the drum (in some cases taking up to 0.015" off). This was much easier with the plungers removed and all other bushes and tolerances remedied, demonstrated in the attached video with a 0.001" feeler gauge.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="milohiscox, post: 179334, member: 4317"] For anyone interested I turned a thou oversize aluminium mandrel and tapped the carrier on square and machined it down. Ended up with 7 thou end float which feels much better. Resisted turning a recess in C3 for an additional o-ring as suggested elsewhere, will follow years of Vincent tradition and gum up the splines, anyway I have new G3 and C3 and the spline fit is fantastic. My sprocket bush PD24 has the scroll in the direction that encourages oil into it. Clutch Thy Beast discusses this at length and suggests soldering it up to ease the work of seal PD25. I didn't find much discussion on this in the forum, so have left it as is, particularly as I have machined a tight 0.001" running clearance on the spigot. Any thoughts on this appreciated. I also note that the majority of the clutch literature (Whitakerpedia, KTB, Instructions sheets etc) focus on the mechanical set-up of the clutch, springs, play, particularly oil retention. However my own experience of this rebuild was that 80% of the time was spent gently sanding the relined shoes until they all made good, simultaneous contact with the drum (in some cases taking up to 0.015" off). This was much easier with the plungers removed and all other bushes and tolerances remedied, demonstrated in the attached video with a 0.001" feeler gauge. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Clutch sprocket play
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