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PT: Exhaust Chroming Re-flanging Exhausts


Rob H

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VOC Member
On a twin, is it possible to remove the front exhaust nut for rechroming the pipe and then re-flange the nut back on?

has anyone done this before?
 

timetraveller

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VOC Member
Definitely possible provided that it has not been done too many times before. Remember that you will only be shortening the front pipe by about 5 mm so you can check before dismantling whether that would make a difference by taking out the two nuts and slackening the short to long joint down by the big end quill and then moving the pipe about. Remember that although the pipe might be shorter by 5 mm the port is at about 45 degrees to the horizontal so only about half of the cut is vertical and the other half vertical.
 

ClassicBiker

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VOC Member
It can be done, but be sure the chrome plating firm will do the pipes first. Any dirt, soot, oil, etc., that is in the pipe might cause them to decline the job as it will end up in the bath and they won't be too happy about that. Also the stuff will effect the outcome of the job. When my father restored our Shadow he had the pipes rechromed. We tried to clean them inside and out as best we could. The chrome shop accepted them and the job looked good. When we fired up the bike the first time after the rebuild a huge blister appeared on the pipe. Obviously they weren't as clean as we all thought they were.
Few years back I bought new pipes and silencer from the club when the the baffles blew out of the old silencer.
Steven
 

Robert Watson

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VOC Member
They don't even need to be stainless. Steel ones are just fine, and all covered up by the nut. I have never had one to try but I have been told that the bearing separators from the original crowded roller big ends work well.
 

stumpy lord

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
On a twin, is it possible to remove the front exhaust nut for rechroming the pipe and then re-flange the nut back on?

has anyone done this before?
for a re flanging tool see mph436 page 299in forty years on, very easy to do.
 

davidd

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VOC Member
I have never used a flanging tool because they never seemed to fit a curved pipe very well. I sand the chrome of the end of the pipe and use a hammer while holding the edge of the pipe against a heavy steel table. The trick is not the flanging, but getting the angle of the flanging and the location of the flanging correct.

The last chrome pipe I did I welded on a bearing separator to the end instead of hammering. You still have the issue with the angle and location. Despite the problems, it seems that if you are careful about the positioning of the flange or weld it works pretty well. I have never had to redo one. The weld is hidden by the nut.

David
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
If you hold the pipe into the c/head, How you want it to finish, With the fixing bolt in the pillion plate,
Mark the pipe as it enters the head, That tells you what angle you have to make the flange,
Sometimes you have to tweak it a bit.
 

Robert Watson

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VOC Member
I do a bit as Bill suggests but put the pipe all the way in and install the nut without a flange on the pipe. I then mark around the pipe at the outer end of the nut with a black marker. Take it apart and hold the nut where the marker line is and mark the open end. I then just tack the flange in a couple of places and refit to see how it goes. Usually get it first time but worst case is one tack pops and needs a slight angle change and a re tack.
 

Somer

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VOC Member
Like Robert says, the old bearing separators work great. After re-chroming, braze it on. Any discoloration is hidden by the exhaust nut.
 

vibrac

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VOC Member
I have, I hope, undone my last exhaust nut in the paddock. I have always felt its a recipe for disaster
I am going to fit two short stubs and springs to the nut fins and hooks on the pipes that slide over the stubs.
Then it will be a matter of whipping off the pipes to get to the engine. Where we want the pipes is down the center-line of the engine but time is getting short.
 

BigEd

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VOC Member
VOC Forum Moderator
........... I am going to fit two short stubs and springs to the nut fins and hooks on the pipes that slide over the stubs.
Then it will be a matter of whipping off the pipes to get to the engine. .....
Another job I 've been meaning to do for a few years, maybe this year.
 

Bill Thomas

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VOC Member
As David said, Just find a sharp hard edge, To bash against, And go round a little at a time,
You will make the flange too thick to go in the head, So just trim off a bit with a Flap wheel in a 4. 1/2" angle grinder.
 

Cyborg

Well Known and Active Website User
VOC Member
I have, I hope, undone my last exhaust nut in the paddock. I have always felt its a recipe for disaster
I am going to fit two short stubs and springs to the nut fins and hooks on the pipes that slide over the stubs.
Then it will be a matter of whipping off the pipes to get to the engine. Where we want the pipes is down the center-line of the engine but time is getting short.
When using a stub, you have the option of chucking it in the lathe. I ran a bead (stainless) around the end and then machined it to make the flange. Hopefully the stainless won’t object to the vibration too much. I was told by a seller of exhaust springs (several brands) that he personally has had the best results with Akrapovic springs. In a discussion with David, he highly recommended running safety wire through the springs to keep them from imbedding themselves into the rear tire.

3C67F958-4D43-4CDC-BBBA-52541EA6D0B4.jpeg
 

sampick

Website User
VOC Member
On a twin, is it possible to remove the front exhaust nut for rechroming the pipe and then re-flange the nut back on?

has anyone done this before?
It is possible to re-chrome the pipe with the nut on, I have just had mine done.
 
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