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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Black Shadow Crankcase Threads
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<blockquote data-quote="oexing" data-source="post: 176973" data-attributes="member: 1493"><p>Looking at options for repair I´d suggest having an adapter in the engine case with any thread oversize according diameters available from the stripped thread in engine case metric or not. I don´t remember if I had to tap some new threads in the case but made adapters from alu 7075 to go with M 10 x1.5mm standard studs at bottom and M 10x1 mm for top nuts. So then once you repaired the case you can do more options:</p><p> Either get available studs when you tapped your adapter for standard studs - BSF likely - or any other thread. Those who run big bore Vincents reportedly got 10 mm studs as not a lot of space available with big bore cylinders too close to old through holes with their enlarged diameters for positioning components from top to bottom. 10 mm seems quite up to the job obviously.</p><p> I did not like that idea of positioning and slipping components all the way down or up in the through holes over the long stepped studs. Japs have never done this but had short hollow dowels for positioning, cylinders, heads, engine cases, all of this. You can do this as well with 10 mm studs, just make some short hollow dowels and loctite one half in one component. So the 10 mm stud will just slip through, no positioning from it, this is the dowels´ job - and easy to assemble. So the original stepped studs look a bit nonsense and a nuisance in real life. </p><p> Another way is to loctite hollow dowels onto 10mm studs in strategic places copied from originals if you want to keep the slipping top end components over the lot like before. So no turning operation for special stepped studs necessary. </p><p> I did all 10mm studs with thread rolling heads on stainless, some titanium in some places too. But actually , when not rolling threads I have gone from die cutting to lathe cutting tool when having stainless or titanium external threads to do. Threads come out a lot cleaner than trying same with used dies. </p><p> Again amusing for me reading once more discussions about identifying obsolete threads when repairs are the subject. Would not care at all about original as you have to do a repair anyway, so you better choose the economic option. And don´t worry about a large repair thread in the engine case, it will be a lot stronger , even when close to edges in some places. The adapter will hold then pull of the smaller stud easily - and don´t overdo the top nuts: The ht steel studs will get even more loads when the engine and all alu cylinder and head heat up !! I will try extra low torque on top nuts, by hand feel certainly , no torque wrench ever used on bikes !</p><p></p><p> Vic</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]61178[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]61179[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="oexing, post: 176973, member: 1493"] Looking at options for repair I´d suggest having an adapter in the engine case with any thread oversize according diameters available from the stripped thread in engine case metric or not. I don´t remember if I had to tap some new threads in the case but made adapters from alu 7075 to go with M 10 x1.5mm standard studs at bottom and M 10x1 mm for top nuts. So then once you repaired the case you can do more options: Either get available studs when you tapped your adapter for standard studs - BSF likely - or any other thread. Those who run big bore Vincents reportedly got 10 mm studs as not a lot of space available with big bore cylinders too close to old through holes with their enlarged diameters for positioning components from top to bottom. 10 mm seems quite up to the job obviously. I did not like that idea of positioning and slipping components all the way down or up in the through holes over the long stepped studs. Japs have never done this but had short hollow dowels for positioning, cylinders, heads, engine cases, all of this. You can do this as well with 10 mm studs, just make some short hollow dowels and loctite one half in one component. So the 10 mm stud will just slip through, no positioning from it, this is the dowels´ job - and easy to assemble. So the original stepped studs look a bit nonsense and a nuisance in real life. Another way is to loctite hollow dowels onto 10mm studs in strategic places copied from originals if you want to keep the slipping top end components over the lot like before. So no turning operation for special stepped studs necessary. I did all 10mm studs with thread rolling heads on stainless, some titanium in some places too. But actually , when not rolling threads I have gone from die cutting to lathe cutting tool when having stainless or titanium external threads to do. Threads come out a lot cleaner than trying same with used dies. Again amusing for me reading once more discussions about identifying obsolete threads when repairs are the subject. Would not care at all about original as you have to do a repair anyway, so you better choose the economic option. And don´t worry about a large repair thread in the engine case, it will be a lot stronger , even when close to edges in some places. The adapter will hold then pull of the smaller stud easily - and don´t overdo the top nuts: The ht steel studs will get even more loads when the engine and all alu cylinder and head heat up !! I will try extra low torque on top nuts, by hand feel certainly , no torque wrench ever used on bikes ! Vic [ATTACH type="full"]61178[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]61179[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Black Shadow Crankcase Threads
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