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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Best Paint Finish for Girdraulics?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jim Bush" data-source="post: 165392" data-attributes="member: 3807"><p>I am preparing to paint the girdraulic parts and RFM as we speak.</p><p></p><p>My process for painting is</p><p>- parts wash to remove as much grease, grime and dirt as possible. Scrape all built up layers of grit/grease in crevasses.</p><p>- go to U-Blast place, use their commercial equipment to remove the paint, down to bare metal</p><p>- at home, degrease, wash/rinse, air blow dry - use a compatible paint degreaser. For aluminum you can use an etch wash at this stage - not an etch primer - it has to be properly rinsed/dried.</p><p>- surface prep in my own blast cabinet with aluminum oxide media, handling with nitrile gloves. This is a light surface prep application only.</p><p>- quick sand to knock down high peaks, 80-120 grit paper</p><p>- air blow any remaining grit/dust</p><p>- mask areas, plug holes if necessary, still using gloves</p><p>- hang in paint booth - still using gloves</p><p>- apply two thin coats epoxy Black primer - allowing flash time</p><p>- after one hour, apply 2pak polyurethane black top coats, usually 2 good coats, not loading the surface, avoiding runs. If you need to sand out runs etc, you have to wait for the full cure / sanding period.</p><p>- leave to cure/dry. The paint I use says 5-6 days for full hardness cure. Touch dry is in a couple of hours, it needs to full cure before being put into use.</p><p>- any time you come back to re-coat, the part must be wet sanded with 400/600 grit after full cure</p><p></p><p>The short cut is to take your cleaned/de-greased parts to your <strong>powder coater</strong> who will blast and powder coat, done. Issues are they determine what gets masked/plugged and if they not familiar with the parts, it can be a real mixed bag. Powder coat is definitely the better option if you do not have access to a painter that will take time to do the proper process. </p><p></p><p>Advice with 2pak paints - I use an air supplied respirator in an exhaust-vented booth (temp controlled room) inside and get consistent results. You can paint outside if the temp is good and no wind, a face mask for paint would suffice. All painted parts would have to be brought inside to hang/cure and you run the risk of damage to the fresh paint any time you handle the parts.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jim Bush, post: 165392, member: 3807"] I am preparing to paint the girdraulic parts and RFM as we speak. My process for painting is - parts wash to remove as much grease, grime and dirt as possible. Scrape all built up layers of grit/grease in crevasses. - go to U-Blast place, use their commercial equipment to remove the paint, down to bare metal - at home, degrease, wash/rinse, air blow dry - use a compatible paint degreaser. For aluminum you can use an etch wash at this stage - not an etch primer - it has to be properly rinsed/dried. - surface prep in my own blast cabinet with aluminum oxide media, handling with nitrile gloves. This is a light surface prep application only. - quick sand to knock down high peaks, 80-120 grit paper - air blow any remaining grit/dust - mask areas, plug holes if necessary, still using gloves - hang in paint booth - still using gloves - apply two thin coats epoxy Black primer - allowing flash time - after one hour, apply 2pak polyurethane black top coats, usually 2 good coats, not loading the surface, avoiding runs. If you need to sand out runs etc, you have to wait for the full cure / sanding period. - leave to cure/dry. The paint I use says 5-6 days for full hardness cure. Touch dry is in a couple of hours, it needs to full cure before being put into use. - any time you come back to re-coat, the part must be wet sanded with 400/600 grit after full cure The short cut is to take your cleaned/de-greased parts to your [B]powder coater[/B] who will blast and powder coat, done. Issues are they determine what gets masked/plugged and if they not familiar with the parts, it can be a real mixed bag. Powder coat is definitely the better option if you do not have access to a painter that will take time to do the proper process. Advice with 2pak paints - I use an air supplied respirator in an exhaust-vented booth (temp controlled room) inside and get consistent results. You can paint outside if the temp is good and no wind, a face mask for paint would suffice. All painted parts would have to be brought inside to hang/cure and you run the risk of damage to the fresh paint any time you handle the parts. [/QUOTE]
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Tech. Advice: Series 'B' / 'C' 500cc/1000cc Bikes
Best Paint Finish for Girdraulics?
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