Brother Ron has just had a pair of tyres fitted, He asked about the 2 nuts, The bloke said one nut and washer inside, To stop someone who may over tighten the outer one, Pulling the valve out. Cheers Bill.
H: Hubs, Wheels and Tyres Tyres
- Thread starter Bill Thomas
- Start date
Probably the best explanation so far
Overtightening never happened with the knurled ring so we can blame the bean counters who went for a standard hex nut and started all this sillynesss
I have run my Comet with a 3.00x20 Avon on the front and having got fed up with the SM and Goodyear rears rapidly wearing square, I fitted a Roadrider with a tube which vastly improved the handling and has remained round in profile for much longer.
Remember to look for and remove a small label inside the roadrider because if left in, it will rapidly chafe through the tube. I complained to Avon about this who said it had the manufacturing date on it and did not matter if the tyre was used as intended in tubless mode!!
the label was not to be found in the latest Roadrider I bought so perhaps they do not now put one in.
Matty
Remember to look for and remove a small label inside the roadrider because if left in, it will rapidly chafe through the tube. I complained to Avon about this who said it had the manufacturing date on it and did not matter if the tyre was used as intended in tubless mode!!
the label was not to be found in the latest Roadrider I bought so perhaps they do not now put one in.
Matty
Going back to the OP. If you have a 20" front you have to fit the standard Avon Rib. No option. The choices for rear are K81 (TT100) or Avon Roadrider. The obvious choice is 21" front and modern Avon Roadrider. The major problem is tubes. Most, but not all, are as leaky as a sieve. Use the pressure indicator caps to see where you're at. I feel sorry for the guys that have a 20" rear.
I have gone for a Roadrunner at the back, To go with a 20" front, I thought it was a bit more rounded than the Roadrider, Not finished the bike yet, Hope to have it together this year ????, I can Dream !.
Cheers Bill.
Cheers Bill.
The washer and one nut go next to the rubber tube inside the rim, and should be fairly tight. This was done originally because their purpose is to clamp the valve stem to the tube; otherwise they leak. A second would go on the opposite side of the rim, and it would be tight to lock the valve stem and its nut in place. Look at antique cars for examples. That M/C people found this less than desirable because of tire slip on the rim pulling the valve out of the tube is not part of the original design, because tires are not supposed to slip around the rim. The Metzler (pictured earlier) was made with the valve stem having a large base to sit next to the rim. It has no washer because the stem was fused into the tube, either with glue or when the tube was vulcanized (heated in manufacture), or both; this is a modern design.
I have read a lot about tubes, because of the air leakage issue. One of Michelin Air Stop Tube's advertising claims is that the outside seam is an overlap seam, unlike other tubes that use a butted seam, which are (allegedly) prone to splitting if punctured. Natural Rubber Tubes are supposed to be less likely to split if punctured, but do not hold air as well, i.e. they leak. Synthetic Rubber (Butyl) tubes are supposed to hold air well but more prone to splitting when punctured. Most modern tubes are Butyl rubber, but still seem to leak, as many of us agree (and complain about). Perhaps I will reach out to Schrader, who makes many high-quality valve cores, and see if they can offer any insight into where the leakage occurs.
Hello John, All they have to do is look back to how they made tubes before.
We didn't have this air loss 10 years ago. Cheers Bill.