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The fork conversion being supplied by Time Traveller.

chrislaun

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
#5
You'll be pleasantly surprised by the initial handling, when you get the springing and damping to suit how you ride you'll be amazed how good it is. Beware the back end affecting what you think the front is doing though.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
#6
Dave Hulstone has also sent me a photograph of the new paint job on his AVO damper. A supplied to me these have a very thin coat of paint. Dave's picture shows just what can be achieved. Incidentally it only became clear last week that the bush in the top of the damper is pushed in but not reamed. Youi will need to use a 3/8" reamer to take out about a couple of thou.
1523939429922.png
 

greg brillus

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
#8
Careful pressing that lower bearing race onto the stem..............Don't forget the lower steel washer that goes under it first as this will alter the geometry if left out.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
#9
I found it better to get the lower bearing hot before putting it on. That is in the fitting instructions and Greg's advice about the lower washer should be noted.
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
#11
You can paint the top of the lower motion block if you wish provided that the layer of paint under the large washer is thin. Do not paint the tube at all as the bearing is a tight fit on that and I recommend heating the bearing to the extent that a drop of saliver will bounce off before trying to fit it. I cracked one which had very slightly gone on tilted and even a slight tap caused the bearing to just crack open. They are hard but very brittle. Once a new one was heated as above it just slid on.
 
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