E: Engine New member, and comet question

Colin

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Put a small amount in your petrol tank, "R" that is, it does no harm and smells fantastic.:)
 

vibrac

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
Put a small amount in your petrol tank, "R" that is, it does no harm and smells fantastic.:)
Thats a bit like fancy dressing up like superman but not getting the super powers:p go for it! my twin has been on it for decades:) you can still get R30
 

James B

Forum User
VOC Member
Hi all,

Thanks all - some great info there.

I’m now the proud owner of a brand new 8:1 piston (shiny shiny!) and have had an enjoyable if mucky weekend cleaning up all the valve gear
Cylinder has honed up nicely - it had been attacked by corrosion following a thirty year stint under various workbenches, but a drill powered hone has brought it back to serviceability if not perfection
Now my attention has turned to the mating face of barrel to head, and there’s something definitely not right here. Cheapskate alternative to engineers blue reveals that the larger mating face (muff to head) is making contact before the sealing face (liner to head). I’m pretty sure this is wrong, and read somewhere (probably on here) about using coarse grinding paste on the muff and fine grinding paste on the liner top to get the appropriate clearances. Ho hum, off to do some more reading before I attack this in earnest. Is this a common occurrence? The barrel and head are a pair from the bike - ie not mix and match from various sources
J
 

timetraveller

Well Known and Active Forum User
VOC Member
That is right, coarse on the wide face and fine on the top of the liner. Providing that you have a large enough vice then I find it easier to hold the head, upside down in a vice, and then rotate the barrel on top of that. You are aiming for about a three thou gap on the wide face when the liner is touching the head and everything is cleaned up.
 
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