E: Engine Comet Mongrel

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Direction of rotation doesn't matter anymore. No mechanical advance. It has a programable advance and rev limiter. It will hold 4 maps (which you can modify with the software and special connector). You can switch ( using a VOES or other switch) maps just in case you accidentally fill up with some real fuel. Oldhaven is working on a bolt on unit for Comets and twins.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Does this look correct? The split pin/spring/E28 arrangement seems weird to me. Plus the spring can barely overcome 1 O-ring (ET187) never mind two. Is that common? Maybe I need to find some o-rings that aren't quite so snug.

Compression release Comet.jpg
 

Martyn Goodwin

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Non-VOC Member
Does this look correct? The split pin/spring/E28 arrangement seems weird to me. Plus the spring can barely overcome 1 O-ring (ET187) never mind two. Is that common? Maybe I need to find some o-rings that aren't quite so snug.

WRONG...........NOT 'O' Rings!! The TWO rubbers should NOT drag/ resist movement inside of of the tube. If they do then the rubbers are incorrectly made. Sorry to have to tell you this but in the past the Spares Co has shipped some to me that were oversize and useless. Maughans can supply the correct item as can Neal Videan in Oz.

There is an item in OVR #45 that tells all - copy of just that item - is attached
 

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  • Maintain Your Comet Valve Lifter.pdf
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Cyborg

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Thank you for my deliverance from sin and its consequences Martyn. Interesting article. You have just enlightened another one of those unwashed heathens.
 

Cyborg

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Must say I had some fun getting the timing side case halve to slide into place. The ET93 C3 outer race didn't want to slide over the rollers. I ended up taking some high strength thread and winding it around the rollers a few times to hold them in against the inner race. Ran both ends of the thread out and down through the small end of the rod and gave it a bit of tension. Slid the case on so the rollers were just engaged in the outer race and then pulled on the thread to remove it. The thread was the same length as when I started so nothing left floating around in there. Can't say I've had to do that before, but there wasn't much of a bevel on the edge of the outer race compared to others.
 

Cyborg

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PS. I thought this was interesting. This went through the parts washing tank (with solvent), then through 4 sessions of 50 minutes each in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, and then a fairly long session with a high power pressure washer. It appeared to be absolutely spotless until I put it in the oven to heat up for the liner. It was oozing out of the fins as well.
Muff.jpg
 

Oldhaven

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Is this an original 1948 muff? My '48 Rapide, (Imported to Canada about the same time as yours and to the same dealer), has a bit of porosity or something resulting in an oil spot on the front cylinder fins that keeps reappearing. The dealer (Grant Budd, Prairie motorcycles) complained to Vincent's about it and was told there was some porosity in the engines. I guess you could think of it as an emergency oil supply.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
Like a big oilite bushing! It could well be from the the 48. I put new cylinders on it. Just to add to the fun Grant would have had, the oil hole in the bore was about an axe handle and a half too high.
 

Cyborg

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VOC Member
I was planning on painting this engine black. Perhaps I need to build myself a vacuum chamber so I can pull out the remaining goo from the pores and fill it with 2 part black epoxy paint.

I think both Rapides (Oldhaven's and mine) should have been Shadows.
 
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