E: Engine Noisy Rocker Bearing

greg brillus

greg brillus

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Everyone needs to find their own way doing these things. I've pressed them in before and had the lot seize up solid because the pin broached it's way in and grabbed on the bush. If you do it by hand you can check it as you go, the trick of chamfering the edge of the pin seems to help very much, as a new rocker and pin can be a very tight fit when assembling.You really only need to support the rocker not the bush, and because the rocker sits either side of the bush you can support the rocker quite easily.
 
Bill Thomas

Bill Thomas

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Just had another thought, I am into welding at the moment, Lots of special tools on youtube, To improve my welding, I have made a simple forming tool that fit's on the vise jaws, So I could make two half rounds and weld them together, It's just 2 bits of angle iron, One the shape of one jaw with the other bit welded to it so you are looking at the open "V", Use something the outer shape of the rocker bush and tighten onto a bit of thickish metal. Cheers Bill.
 
Martyn Goodwin

Martyn Goodwin

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greg brillus said:
The pin should be a very tight fit into the rocker and loose in the alloy bush. [[SNIP]] check nothing is tight and the pin needs to sit just bellow the outer edge of the bush or else it will foul as it enters the tunnel. If the rockers have too much side play they will generally be noisy, you can shim if necessary but be mindful the forked end of the rocker verses the valve stem alignment. A new bush and pin usually fixes most issues, at worst replace the rocker.
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Rocker Pin Damage.jpg

Hi Greg,

The minor damage caused by the 'floating' rocker pin can be seen in this photo (I continue to be amazed at the quality of photos from my mobile phone!) just taken of the interior of the exhaust rocker tunnel on my bike. No wonder it was noisy with the pin banging against the tunnel wall!

New rocker, rocker pin and rocker bearing now ordered.

While at it I was able to measure my max Ex. valve stroke as dictated by clearance between the lower guide and ET35 - if I ever wanted to go to higher lift - its 0.435".

update to follow.

Rgs, Martyn
 
greg brillus

greg brillus

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Hi Martyn, If you bought the parts from Neal and the rocker is one of his, you won't need to grind off the top of it as his ones are offset to suit the ET 100/1 mod, so they assemble straight up without any changes. Cheers...............Greg.
 
Martyn Goodwin

Martyn Goodwin

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greg brillus said:
Hi Martyn, If you bought the parts from Neal and the rocker is one of his, you won't need to grind off the top of it as his ones are offset to suit the ET 100/1 mod, so they assemble straight up without any changes. Cheers...............Greg.
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That was my source. Parts obtained AND installed - with just a trace of blue loctite on the ET100/1 threads. Fuel tank back on tomorrow then a test run.
 
Bill Thomas

Bill Thomas

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MartynG said:
That was my source. Parts obtained AND installed - with just a trace of blue loctite on the ET100/1 threads. Fuel tank back on tomorrow then a test run.
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Any chance of a photo of the new rocker arm, Cheers Bill.
 
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Vincent Brake

Vincent Brake

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greg brillus said:
Everyone needs to find their own way doing these things. I've pressed them in before and had the lot seize up solid because the pin broached it's way in and grabbed on the bush. If you do it by hand you can check it as you go, the trick of chamfering the edge of the pin seems to help very much, as a new rocker and pin can be a very tight fit when assembling.You really only need to support the rocker not the bush, and because the rocker sits either side of the bush you can support the rocker quite easily.
Click to expand...
been there yes....
 
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